PVC interlocking floor tiles are commonly used in gyms, studios, garages and workshops.  They feature durable interlocking edges that can be tapped into place with a rubber mallet for secure connection. They can be installed as a floating-floor system (no adhesive needed) or combined with adhesive for high traffic areas if needed.  They provide cushioning and protection over concrete or existing floors.

Important note: When installing fitted tiles e.g. wall-to-wall, you’ll rarely end up with perfect full tiles across the entire floor. At the edges of the room or around columns, doorways, or other fixtures, you often need to cut tiles, so they fit neatly. Therefore, when calculating how many tiles are required, you need to allow for cut-off waste. Typically add 3% extra material to avoid running out.

 

Tools and Materials Needed

Most items are basic and household-friendly:

• Measuring tape: For layout planning and cuts.
• Utility/Stanley knife or sharp box cutter: For trimming edges (use a fresh blade for clean cuts).
• Straight edge or steel ruler: To guide precise cuts.
• Rubber mallet: Essential for gently tapping tiles into their interlocking edges—use moderate force to avoid damage.
• Work gloves and knee pads: For handling and kneeling comfortably.
• Your PVC interlocking tiles: Measure the area and add 5-10% extra for cuts/waste.
• Edging strips: Suggested for borders or entrances (add 10% extra to measurements for cuts/waste).
• Optional PVC adhesive for High-Traffic Securing: Pekay A663 adhesive (Part A base) and hardener (Part B, for quicker set time); mixing stick or slow-speed drill; wooden float/trowel.
• Optional level (for subfloor check), broom/vacuum/mop and bucket with Clean Green/Handy Andy for cleaning.

 

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

1. Prepare the Subfloor: Remove furniture, debris, and any loose items. Clean thoroughly with a broom or vacuum to ensure a dust-free surface. The subfloor should be dry, stable, and level. Minor imperfections are fine for PVC tiles but fill large cracks with a patching compound and allow it to cure fully.
2. Plan the Layout: Lay rows starting from the entrance to test fit. For trimming, aim for balanced cuts on all edges (try to avoid strips narrower than half a tile). If you are adding edging strips to entrances (highly recommended), plan their placement and measurements too (see below for more details).
3. Apply adhesive (optional): If you will be gluing your tiles down you would need to mix your glue and spreading it evenly over a portion of your floor at a time using a wooden float (see below for more details). Consider the glue drying time to allow yourself enough time to complete the current section.
4. Start the First Row: Position a full tile at your starting point (typically the entrance). For the next tile, align the interlocking edges (tabs and grooves) carefully. Insert the tongue into the groove at a slight angle, then lower it flat. Use the rubber mallet to gently tap along the seam until it locks securely.  Ensure that you leave space for the edging (see below) which should be connected now too.
5. Build Subsequent Rows: Continue row by row working outward from the entrance towards the walls of the space. Interlock side edges first within the row you are adding, then connect ends to the previous row. Align carefully and tap with the mallet along the full seam. Check periodically with a straight edge e.g. ruler, to ensure your rows are straight.
6. Cut and Fit Edges: Measure gaps against walls or obstacles, mark on the underside of the tile, and score with the utility knife (multiple passes). When measuring, remember to cater for the interlocking edges. Cut the tile along the scored line. For irregular shapes, make small relief cuts and trim incrementally. Tap the cut pieces into place with the mallet.
7. Finalize and Check: Tap all seams once more for a flush, even surface. Walk across to test for loose areas and re-tap as needed. Let the floor settle for 24 hours before heavy use. Clean with a soft broom or damp mop (no abrasives).

 

Optional: Installing Edging for Entrances or Free-Standing Mats

Edging strips finish exposed edges, prevent tripping, and protect tile corners. This is essential for safety in high-traffic areas like gyms or garages. Use them on entrances for wall-to-wall installs or around the perimeter for free-standing mats. These interlock with the tiles.

For Wall-to-Wall Installations (Edging only required on entrances):

1. Identify entrance points (e.g. door thresholds).
2. Measure the entrance width and cut edging strips to fit using the utility knife (score first for straight cuts).
3. Align the edging's interlocking side with the tile edge at the entrance. Insert the tab into the tile groove.  If possible, run the edging from halfway across one tile to halfway across the adjacent tile for added hold.
4. Tap gently with the rubber mallet along the length to secure. For ramps, ensure the sloped side faces the traffic direction.
5. If required, apply a bead of adhesive under the edging for added hold (let cure 24 hours).
6. Test by walking over and adjust if uneven.

For Free-Standing Mats (Edging required around all edges):

1. After tiling the mat area, measure the full perimeter (length + width x 2) and cut edging strips accordingly.
2. Start at a corner: Align and interlock one end of the edging with the tile's exposed edge (groove-over-tab). Run the edging from halfway across one tile to halfway across the adjacent tile for added hold and allowing for aligning corner cuts.
3. Continue around, cutting the corners at 45° angles with the utility knife for a clean join.  Take note that our FloLock edging have included 45° guidelines on the underside of the tile to assist you with getting the cut right.
4. Tap each segment with the mallet to lock in place.
5. If needed, secure with adhesive dots under edges for stability on uneven floors.
6. Inspect for flush fits, trim excess and re-tap loose spots.

 

Optional: Securing Tiles with Pekay A663 Adhesive (for High-Traffic Areas)

 

For added stability in high-traffic zones (e.g. gyms or garages), apply adhesive to the subfloor before or after interlocking the tiles. This converts the floating floor to a semi-permanent installation. Use Pekay A663 (urethane-based, two-component adhesive) with hardener for a quicker set time. Always work in a well-ventilated area, wear gloves, and follow safety instructions on the product. Do not use below 5°C.

Tools/Materials for this step:

• Pekay A663 base (Part A);
• Pekay A663 hardener (Part B);
• Mixing container/stick or slow-speed drill;
• Wooden float;
• Rubber gloves;
• Drop cloths.

Instructions:

1. Prepare Surfaces: Ensure the subfloor and tile backs are clean, dry, and free of dust/oil. For concrete, lightly sand if glossy and wipe with a degreaser (e.g. alcohol). Test a small area for adhesion compatibility.
2. Mix the Adhesive: In a clean container, mix Part A and Part B. Stir thoroughly with a stick or drill (low speed) until uniform colour (about 1-2 minutes). Mix only what you can use in 15-20 minutes (pot life at 20°C). Do not dilute.
3. Apply the Adhesive: Spread a thin layer (2-3 m² per litre coverage) on the subfloor using a wooden float for even ridges (apply to subfloor only for better spread). Work in sections to match your layout. If securing after tiles are interlocked, lift edges slightly and apply under seams.
4. Place and Press Tiles: Position the interlocked tiles over the adhesive within 20 minutes. Press down firmly with the rubber mallet or by walking/kneeling on them to ensure full contact. Squeeze out excess adhesive.
5. Cure and Finish: Allow initial set (20 minutes at 25°C). Full cure takes 7 days at 25°. Avoid heavy traffic during this time. Clean tools immediately with a solvent like Pekay Solvent C411 while wet.

Safety Notes:

• Wear rubber gloves to avoid skin irritation from the hardener;
• Rinse eyes with water if splashed;
• Provide ventilation to avoid fumes;
• Store unused parts at 15-35°C; shelf life is 12 months for Part A (base), 6 months for Part B (hardener).

 

Tips for Success

• Install in temperatures above 15°C for easier interlocking.
• Over concrete? Ensure it's sealed if moisture is a concern.
• For gyms/garages, these tiles offer great shock absorption. Pair with edging strips for finished borders if desired.
• Common pitfalls:
  • Rushing your mallet taps or ignoring acclimation.
  • For edging, always prioritize safety as uneven ramps can cause trips.
  • When using adhesive, test compatibility to avoid tile damage (we recommend Pekay A663).

 

Once installed, your new floor should provide years of reliable use!

 

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